I have tried position the Clip very carefully making sure the it is sitting over all 8 pins of the BIOS chip. I have disconnected everything (PSU, drives, CMOS battery, GPU, etc) on the motherboard (except the CPU as it’s delidded with liquid thermal paste).īut I just cannot get the CH341A to detect either BIOS chips. Installed the drivers for windows (I’m on WIN10) and a separate laptop. Bought a CH341A programmer with a Clip cable. This BIOS worked great by booting from the NVMe SSD. So my assumption now is both BIOS’s are bad.įew weeks ago a had updated the main BIOS to to modded BIOS that has NVME UEFI drivers. I assume that the Backup flash was automatically being flashed to Main which failed (?). Once I did see a the code “db” which apparently means BIOS flash failed. The restart is now with Backup BIOS and does the same…15…32…switch to Main BIOS…auto restart forever. On power up the LED display pauses with code “15” and then at code “32”, then the bios LED switches from Main to Backup and auto restarts. There’s a switch to select Main or Backup BIOS. The motherboard has 2-digit LED display and also two LED’s to show which BIOS is in play (Main or Backup). I’m trying to solve a problem with my old motherboard (Z77X-UP5) which decided to go into a power-on boot loop. Hi guys, Just joined the forum after hanging around for a while and learning from this great guide. Make sure it opens properly and looks correct in any BIOS editing tools you are familiar with too, then you’ll know it’s OK. Then repeat that a time or two and compare those two verified files, if they’re always good files and match then probably OK. Open that file in hex editor and make sure it’s not all FF"s. Verify after reading it should tell you chip and buffer or memory match, then that is possibly a good verified file (not always).
If it verified good, then you hit save BIOS. Once you’ve done that, hit read and when it’s done hit verify. Sometimes you might need to choose less than full ID, or different than ID too, like BIOS ends in FV sometimes BV works better, but you’ll figure that out later if it comes to that. Hit detect and if it detects your chip by ID OK, then select that one. Then open software of your choosing to try first, I already try newest version first.
If it is all FF’s, that’s verified invalid blank and you need to use another software version or CHIP ID and try again until you get verified and valid backup). Run read, then verify, once it says “Chip/Buffer match” then that is verified, click save and then open that file in hex editor and make sure it’s valid BIOS and not all FF’s. The contents of the files is not the same but it is very similar. You can compare the backup file with the original bios file from manufacturer site, using one hex editor software. Attention, before continuing with the PART 3, please check the content of the backup file.
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